Je t'aime, Bordeaux! WSET 3.4

I loved this week's class.

This week was all about Bordeaux - and I think Bordeaux is my very favourite wine.

Bordeaux is on the west coast of France and is split into two main regions, the left bank and the right bank.

The right bank is mostly clay soil so Merlot is the primary grape with some support from Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. There are places like Pomerol and St. Emillon that are very famous producers of this style of wine. It is excellent wine, undoubtedly, but my preference is for the other side of the Garonne River.

The left bank, ooh - la - la, is the home of the Cabernet Sauvignon focused blends which grow in more gravelly soils. There is still Cab Franc and Merlot (and, optionally, Malbec and Petit Verdot) but the driving force of these grippy, structured wines is Cabernet Sauvignon. The famous places include St. Estephe, Paulliac, St. Julien, and Margaux in the upper (Medoc) region and Pessac-Leognan, and Graves to the south. These might possibly be my favourite wines to drink in the world.

Courtesy the Wine Cellar Insider

Bordeaux wines can be pretty pricey - there are some that are thousands of dollars - but you can pick up a decent one for $40 to $60 - particularly something like a Cru Bourgeois, which chateaux have to apply for each year based on the quality of their wine. If you were to spend around $100 (definitely special occasion) you could find some exceptional wines. Only thing is, you probably would want to wait five to ten years to drink them!

The ranking system is interesting. In Medoc only, the top wines are called Grand Cru Classé. This category is divided into five 'growths' with first growth being the top wines. All of this ranking came from Napoleon III and the classification he directed in 1855. Little has changed since then. There's also Cru Bourgeois for those wineries that were too small or weren't around 150 years ago. In Graves, the better wines are just called Cru Classé - there are no growths. And in St. Emillon, they have another system with St. Emillon AOC at the bottom, then, St. Emillon Grand Cru Classé, and finally Premier Grand Cru Classé which is divided into A and B. All of these classifications had had their problems over the years.

Courtesy Wander and Wine

The other area we looked at was Alsace, a region of France bordering on Germany, which is home of mostly white wines including Riesling (dry style), Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat and some other grapes (Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner). It is the only French region that I am aware of that has the varietal of wine on the label. They do have some sweet wines - Vendages Tardine which is basically Late Harvest wine where the grapes have undergone passerillage (drying of grapes on the vine) and Selection de Grains Nobles where wines have undergone Noble Rot.

When buying an Alsace wine, there is the Alsace AOC (must be 100% varietal) and then the Alsace Grand Cru AOC (which must be made from one of the four Noble Grape varieties (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Muscat). Much simpler than Bordeaux!

And now, some tasting....

We started off with wines from Alsace. We were given three and told that each was a different Noble Grape. Our group was able to easily figure out which wine was which.

The 2015 Trimbach Riesling ($60) was a bone dry Riesling with high acid, high alcohol, medium body, medium plus flavour and a medium finish. Definite tastes of apple, lemon, honey, flint and even a bit of petrol. I couldn't decide between Good and Very Good but this one could probably age a bit.

The Pinot Gris was a 2016 Domaine Mersiol ($36) from Alsace, of course. It had some nice fruit flavours including peach, apricot, nectarine and honeysuckle as well as some floral notes. Lynn, our instructor,  felt it was a Very Good wine and had ageing potential although I really like my Pinot Gris wines to be as fruity and floral as possible. I feel that way about most white wines.

The final wine of the three was a 2017 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer from Kuhlmann-Platz ($25). Although youthful, this wine had a complex array of flavours including peach, apricot, pineapple, lychees, roses and ginger. I thought it was high alcohol but Lynn, our instructor, said that it was probably because of the ginger that I was tricked into thinking it was higher than it actually was. I thought it was Outstanding but I think the consensus was Very Good as not everyone felt it had a long enough finish. It was, however, balanced, intense, and complex. A steal for $25!

The next three were from Bordeaux - my faves! One was a white, one was left bank and one was right bank.

The white was a Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blend (about 80% SB) and was a 2011 Les Hauts de Smith from Pessac Leognan ($83). This wine had some great flavours but I missed a few of them so I will put what the class consensus was - grass, peach, lemon, pear, toast, mushroom, and vanilla. This was aged in barrels on the lees to give it a nice, buttery finish. This is another wine that had ageing potential and was rated Outstanding (although I had only rated it as Very Good).

The right bank wine was a 2012 Chateau Barde-Haut Grand Cru from St. Emillon ($96). There was both red and black fruit on this including cherries and plums as well as toast, leather, and wet leaves. It had less tannins than the next wine, surprising as it is two years younger, and also had a wonderful velvety mouth feel. If all Merlots tasted like this, I would drink it a LOT more often!

The left bank wine was a 2010 Chateau Capbern Gasqueton from St. Estephe ($126). I tasted black cherry, black plum, cedar, tobacco, and green pepper. It was an earthy wine that had some grippy tannins but still had great structure to it. Definitely could age and was rated Outstanding. My favourite wine of the course so far....

We had another Bordeaux and a wine from Cahors to round out the reds.

The Bordeaux wine was a 2010 Cru Bourgeois from Chateau Dasvin-Belair in Haut Medoc ($45). This was a great price and it had some interesting aromas and tastes including red cherry, green paper, pepper, black plum, toast, tobacco and cedar. Although its finish wasn't as long as the previous two, it was balanced, intense, and complex and definitely ready to drink - Very Good!

The wine from Cahors was a 2016 Gouleyant Malbec. It was OK - red berries, red currant, cranberry, and some smoke - but was a bit of a let down after the previous three. It was a Good wine and was ready to drink. 

Finally, we had a sweet wine from Sauternes. Unfortunately, this 2013 Chateau Armajan Des Ormes  ($39) at the end of the class and was a bit rushed. Suffice it to say that it was quite sweet due to noble rot and had oak and vanilla amongst its flavour profile as well as high acid.

A good wine but Bordeaux reds is where my heart is.

This weekend, our provincial liquor stores are having a release of the 2015 Bordeaux wines. I already bought a couple last week at Everything Wine but I have my eye on two or three in the special catalogue that they produced. Looking forward to some grippy, structured, wonderful wines!

There's a World of Wine Out There!

One thing that I've learned since taking my WSET course is that there is a world of wine. Just because you've had a Shiraz from Australia, doesn't mean that you know what all Shiraz (or Syrah) wines taste like. There's Syrah from the Côtes du Rhone, Syrah from the Okanagan, Syrah from the Columbia Valley, and Syrah from California. You can also find Syrah from Argentina, South Africa, and Spain, just to name a few - and it all tastes different!

There were times when I looked down at Okanagan wines for being too bland and times when I drank only Okanagan wines because they were so spectacular!  I've also gone through other periods such as  my French phase, where I would only look at the French wine aisle in the liquor store.

I have learned from my errors and now, I try to drink a variety of different wines with different grapes from different parts of the world. I do have a bit of a soft spot for BC wines but I am aware that there are so many other wines out there that I would be remiss if I were to not try as many of them as I can!

Over the past three weeks, three wines have really stuck out - one from France, one from Spain and one from the Okanagan. All were excellent wines that I will definitely have again.

First was a Cru Bourgeois from France. A little history; basically mon ami Napolean asked for a system of  classifying wines (in Bordeaux) for the 1855 Frnech Expo and his underlings came up with the current classification system in France. There have been a few updates since then but hardly any. Coming much later, Cru Bourgeois are, ostensibly, a level below cru, premier cru and grand cru. But these vineyards did not have the wines assigned in 1855. Producers actually have to apply every year and, if they get the Cru Bourgeois designation, it is a sign that this is a really good wine! It only applies to Medoc and the wines are much better priced than other Bordeaux wines.

The Cru Bourgeois I had as a 2010 Chateau Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande Cru Bourgeois from Haut Medoc ($30).  I decanted it for an hour before we drank it and it was marvellous! It did not have the fruitiness that I used to think was necessary for a good wine but, instead, had an intensity and a minerality that I have grown to value in an aged wine. There were good tannins and black fruit but also tastes of tobacco, leather and earth. It is a blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot.

Ah, but once I had it with a rich duck sausage and mushrooms, the taste was extraordinary. The tannins in the wine cut nicely into the richness of the duck and the funky earthiness of the wine complemented the earthiness of the mushrooms. It was truly a food friendly wine - but also tasted great as I sipped it while I cooked.

The next wine was one that I picked up at the Wine Festival in Vancouver. It was a 2013 Herederos del Marques de Riscal Rioja ($30). I didn't decant this initially but. after the first sip or two, I realized that this needed some opening up. I decanted the rest while my wife and I madly swirled our glasses to get some air into the wine. It was another excellent wine with some tobacco and leather taste but there was also some fruitiness - mostly red fruit - that was on the palate.

This wine was great to sip and was also a food friendly wine. We enjoyed beef sausages (is there some pattern here?) that tasted great with the wine. To be honest, 3/4 of the bottle was gone before dinner was ready, and it was fantastic just to sip away on. This wine was a blend of mostly Tempranillo with some Graciano and some Mazuelo (also known as Carignan).

The last wine was brought by good friends who came over for a special birthday dinner. We served a great Daydreamer wine (that was very nice) but that was trumped by the 2014 Painted Rock Syrah ($35). This wine was a special bottle that our friends had kept for around a year, saving for a special occasion.

The Syrah was so smooth - yet also had definite fruit tastes of blueberries and raspberries as well as some black fruit. It was accompanying grilled leg of lamb with potatoes and was a perfect match. And what a finish! Long and rich - this was a wine that wanted you to remember it! I was really impressed with this wine and would give it top marks.

These three wines were all excellent wines from different parts of the world. They were all what I consider a bit of a splurge at around $30 but, for what you get, they were definitely worth it!

Vancouver Wine Festival - Oh What a Night! - Part Two

Another lovely Cava from Segura Viudas

It's really amazing - put a large number of people in a large room, give them a wine glass and access to over 700 different wines, and tell them they have just three hours to drink what they can.

That's the main premise behind the Vancouver Wine Festival.

And the people! They were so interesting! Most people were dressed rather smartly but there was the occasional chill dude in a t-shrit and jeans. There were also some women dressed in rather short, tight dresses that maybe weren't the most comfortable for a wine tasting - especially with stiletto heels... And, of course, there was the odd person wearing running shoes - probably a very smart idea as we all spent most of the three hours on our feet.

At many of the booths were people with blue lanyards attached to their name tags. These were the actual winemakers and they were great to talk to. They were passionate and answered all of my questions - even though they had probably heard them many times before - with an enthusiasm that was riveting.

Onto the wines, again.

We'll start with Portugal, the other country featured in the festival.

There weren't a ton of wines from Portugal, especially compared with Spain, but I did try a couple Douro Valley wines.  My favourite, by a mile, was Quinta de Crasto.  The first was a 2015 Superior  ($36 at Everything Wine) made with a variety of grapes including Touriga Nacional. Great berry flavours and strong body in this wine. The second was a 2014 Reserve Old Vines ($41). Amazingly, the vines that this wine was made of are over 90 years old! This was a smooth wine with balanced tannins. The vineyards that this one comes from has literally dozens of different grapes mixed so it's a real testament to the winemaker and the mix as this wine is a really enjoyable drink.

The last one from this winery was the first of the ports that I tried - and boy, did I enjoy trying.

The 2013 Quinta de Crasto Late Bottle Vintage Port was a good Port - not too sweet and with balanced tannins. It was about $26 at the festival which is a killer good deal. I hope that it ends up in the liquor store on a regular basis.

Fonseca had some damned fine Ports as well. My two favourites were the 2015 Guimaraens Vintage Port ($74 at the festival $87 at Devine Wines in Edmonton - 2012 vintage $82 at Everything Wine) with its raisiny elegance and the 2008 Vintage Port Quinta do Panascal($60 at festival, $44 - Marquis Wines in Vancouver) with its rich, creamy, black fruit flavours.

I had never heard of Warre's Port before and was thrilled to try this 1985 Vintage Port. What a rich, smooth, yet powerful Port. A wonderful taste. ($135 at the festival, $129 at Devine's in Edmonton). 

Ah, but there's always the one that got away. My youngest is a Supervisor at Brewery Creek and was able to try a 50 year old Taylor Fladgate Port at the Industry Tasting in the afternoon. Fifty year old! However, when I got to their table, I was told that the Industry people drained the bottle! Damn!

Moving on in our world tasing was a delicious Pinot Gris from New Zealand. The Villa Maria Pinot Gris Seddon Vineyard  ($33) was so crisp, honey-like and fruity that I immediately thought of that wonderful Fort Beren's Pinot Gris ($20) I had last spring. Although this one tasted very similar, the price point seemed just a bit high.

It is sometimes said that wine originated in Turkey - so where better to taste than at the only wine from Turkey, Suvla. I tasted two wines - the first was a unique Turkish grape called Karasakiz ($23) which was OK but a bit different than any other grape I had tried. It was a very light wine so it might be a good wine to pair with lighter fare. I also tried their 2010 Sur ($35 at festival and $30 at Marquis in Vancouver) which was a blend of several wines and I found that wine to be quite tasty with good tannins and a little sweetness and fruitiness. A very interesting couple of wines.

We tried a few wineries from France but the one that I enjoyed the best was from a negociant (and I'm sorry to say, I can't remember which one!).  They specialize in Bordeaux wines and I was privileged to have one of the winemakers from one of the wineries they represent lead me through a tasting of exceptional wines.

I started with a 2009 L'Egerie de Chateau Chereau from Saint-Emilion ($32) which was a Merlot/Cab Sauv/Cab Franc blend. It was good but not outstanding.

The next wine I tried was a 2009 Chateau du Taillan Cru Bourgeois ($37 - looks like it might be regularly stocked in BC liquor stores) from Haut Medoc. A Cru Bourgeois wine has to earn that classification each year which is no easy feat. It has Merlot, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc and is a wonderful black fruit, black cherry wine. A super deal.

I finished with a 2005 Chateau Verdignan also from Haut Medoc ($52) which was a blend of Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot. A very accessible wine that would pair nicely wth food but is delicious on its own. A splurge that would merit a special occasion.

Our final stop was our friends down south, the USA. I did skip the Canadian wines because there is only so much time to sample and I can try Canadian wines anytime. The three hours just fly along, especially when you take a couple shopping breaks.

The first winery was Charles Smith / K Vintners from Walla Walla, Washington. I liked all of their wines but I loved one - their 2014 M.C.K. - Motor City Kitty Syrah ($50). This powerful wine had delicious dark fruits and a super long finish. I couldn't find it in the onsite liquor store so we have altered our planned trip over Spring Break so that we go through Walla Walla on the way back from Las Vegas, just so I can pick up some of this wonderful stuff!

Finally, near the end of the night, we went to the California section to a winery we had actually visited in Napa seven years ago, St. Supery. We enjoyed all of their wines but the big standout for me was their Cab Sauv - and I was sure to pick up a bottle of this. I know, the photo is of the Sauvignon Blanc - and that's what happens when you are taking photos at the end of the evening! However, rest assured that their Estate Cab Sauv ($61) is a classic Cab Sauv with strong tannins but a balanced taste due to the fruitiness of the wine.

Thanks to the BC Liquor Store, we didn't actually have to pack our case of wine home - they will ship it to our local liquor store in a week or two for pick up.

As I finished my last glass (and, to be honest, I had stopped dumping when there was a half hour left so I could fully appreciate drinking, not just tasting, the wines), I said goodbye to my frat brothers from all of those years ago as my wife and I sauntered back to the hotel. We both had a fantastic time and really enjoyed ourselves. I am already looking forward to next year's wine festival.

¡Salud!